August 30th
& 31st
We had heard nothing about this area so our decision to
visit Steep Point was a rather whimsical one, based purely on the desire to be
able to say we stood on the most westerly point of mainland Australia having
the most northerly and the most easterly already under our belts. Regardless of
our reason to visit, it quickly became apparent that this was an excellent
decision as this was one of the most magnificent spots we had seen on our
adventure.
We drove that morning from Wooramel Station to the Useless
Loop Rd (great name!!). There was 100km of pretty decent dirt road then 30km of
amazing, challenging and fun driving through sand dunes, past huge sand blows
that made us think we were in the Sahara Desert, turquoise blue water from a
distance and then up close as the track wound its way along the water front
taking us to Shelter Bay to camp for the night. This was an idyllic – right on
the water with views to Dirk Hartog Island (remember your primary school
history lessons). Spent the afternoon doing a bit of fishing, a bit of swimming
and a bit of walking on the beach and rocks. We fell asleep with the sound of
the waves crashing on the shore.
Next morning – bit more fishing and swimming then off to
stand on the most westerly point of Australia’s mainland. At Steep Point was
the obligatory ‘Most westerly point….’ sign but what we didn’t expect to find
in front of the sign was a photo pole (complete with instructions) strategically positioned to ensure no-one
missed out on their photo opportunity once they had driven all this way! We
stood up there for ages being buffeted by the wind and watching a few whales
cavorting in the distance. It was a grey day which kind of seemed appropriate
weather to be in this rugged place. It was a huge swell and standing there
watching the enormous waves crash against the 30m cliffs was really quite a
spectacle.
We dragged ourselves away from Steep Point and drove down
the west coast of this point of land. Our breath was constantly taken away by
the rugged and amazing coastline and the stark contrast between the white foam
of the crashing waves, the redness of the sheer cliffs and the green and yellow
of the bushes and wildflowers just back from the cliffs.
One of the features of this coastline is a series of blow
holes. Given the size of the swell on the day we were there, the blow holes put
on a spectacular display. With each new wave that pounded the coast, sea spray
shot forth from these holes with a force and noise that was awesome and a
little bit scary at the same time.
We completed the coastal circuit, got back onto the Useless
Loop Rd and our accommodation for the night was at Hamelin Bay Station Stay (www.hamelinstationstay.com.au).
The Station was a working station for many years and the previous owners had a
vision to provide travellers with a place to stop and rest and experience a
little of what it was like to live on a working sheep station. They oversaw the
restoration of the original shearer’s quarters and ensured that all new
buildings were built of local rock and corrugated iron in keeping with the
aesthetics of the other station buildings. The Station has recently been bought
by a non-profit, private conservation group called Bush Heritage Australia that
protects millions of hectares of ecologically important land (www.bushheritage.org.au). Hamelin Station
is an area of outstanding conservation value and Bush Heritage’s over-arching
aim for the Station is to protect the natural biodiversity and its underlying
ecological value.
Ran into a number of people we had crossed paths with before
on this trip. Interesting how people pop up over again – guess everyone is
doing the tourist trail and while we try to avoid the road more travelled, in
some parts you have no choice but to stay in spots that everyone else does.
Afternoon walk to the lake for a spot of bird watching and
also explored the old shearers shed on site. We stayed tonight in the
refurbished Shearer’s quarters.
Another amazing blog post- thanks for sharing. Dx
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